Tag Archives: DPRK

Freedom’s Just Another Word For Nothing Left to Say

This is the eighteenth and final installment in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

 

One “special request” we filed with our minders was to be permitted to walk into Pyongyang unescorted, perhaps as far as the railway station and back. Much to our surprise, they said it was possible. They had already added several of the places we asked to see–a grocery store, a shop, and the amusement park–but we weren’t terribly optimistic about this one.

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Cracking Up in the DPRK

This is the seventeenth in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

  

ANDQMTF2B80-CNV00025.jpgWe said goodbye to our brave military escort at the DMZ, thankful that they’d protected us from the imminent danger of American attack.

We made one last stop on our way back to the capital, just outside Kaesong city. It was reputedly the tomb of an early Korean king and his Mongolian wife, but as with everything else in the DPRK, nothing could be taken at face value. North Korea has been known to fake archaeological findings to support whatever version of history is the current party line.

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North Korea – The DMZ Too

This is the sixteenth in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

 

 

ANDQMTF2B80-CNV00034.jpgOur presence on the wrong side of the frontier caused a mild scramble among the South Korean forces.

Frantic radio messages were dispatched. Binoculars were trained on us. Reinforcements jogged over to take up positions half-concealed by the corners of buildings, where they conducted a whispered conference and pointed accusing fingers of guilt. They clearly considered us traitors to humanity.

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Coming Down Hard in the Demilitarized Zone

This is the fifteenth in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

 

The highlight of my time in North Korea–the moment that made all the badgering and propaganda worthwhile–was our visit to the Demilitarized Zone and the truce village of Panmunjom. This thin line bisecting two worldviews is the last Cold War frontier, and the world’s most heavily defended border.

The uneventful drive from Pyongyang featured the same broad tourist highway we’d seen on the drive north to Mt Myohyang, with the same manufactured greenery on both sides. There were more roadblocks and checkpoints as we neared the border, but this was the only indication of the massive concentration of conventional, chemical and biological weapons stockpiled in the surrounding hills.

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Propaganda Gets Me Down

This is the fourteenth in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

 

The Arch of Triumph commemorates North Korea’s liberation from the Japanese occupation at the end of World War Two. It looks an awful lot like the Arch in Paris, but of course Pyongyang’s Arch was deliberately built to be 3 meters taller…

 

dprkarch.jpgNorth Korea doesn’t acknowledge the Pacific War (WWII) and the role it played in the liberation of the country, which made this a natural topic to bring up with our minders. It’s good to test the waters every now and then, to remind each other we both know where the line’s been drawn in the bullshit.

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Spending National Liberation Day in North Korea

This is the twelfth in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

 

 
Our escorts chose National Liberation Day–the holiday celebrating Korea’s liberation from the Japanese occupation of the Second World War–to make our obligatory visit to the Grand Monument on Mansudae Hill. There were a lot more people than normal in the streets of Pyongyang, and the sun blazed down with a festive vengeance.

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A North Korean Shopping Mall

This is the eleventh in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

 

It took me nearly a week to realize why Pyongyang felt so much like a stage set. It wasn’t just the marble monuments and the enormous public buildings, the empty ten-lane streets and the weird scarcity of people. It was the almost total absence of shops. In all our bus rides through the city, I’d seen nothing to suggest that people actually lived there.

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Child Stars, and the North Korea Spy Ship Incident

This is the tenth in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

 

Any propaganda tour of Pyongyang is bound to include a visit to the American spy ship Pueblo, captured by North Korea in 1968. To most people 1968 is ancient history, the distant past. But the North Koreans are still gloating over it and the international incident it caused.

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You’ll Never Guess What Kim Il-Sung and Jesus Have in Common

This is the eigth in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

 

Any trip to Pyongyang involves extensive tours of the city. It’s North Korean’s showcase, a vast stage set carefully designed to promote the myth of the Fatherland and the success of Kim Il-Sung’s Juche philosophy.

Our first stop was a house said to be the birthplace of Kim Il-Sung. It was a poor little dwelling on the outskirts of the city, set amidst vast manicured lawns and flowerbeds. As I walked through the grounds the shrubbery startled me by playing military music, and trees burst into exuberant flurries of recorded birdsong as I passed.

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Back in Metropolis, Circuses and Elephants

This is the seventh in a multi-part blog on North Korea. You can find the others here

When I got back to Pyongyang it was gray and overcast and just beginning to drizzle. I shook of my bus daze as we drove through the city’s silent streets.

Our minders took us directly to the circus.

Outside our private entrance, a group of Koreans practiced marching in the empty parking lot. Drill instructors ran beside them, yelling to get their legs up higher, and sometimes hitting them with sticks.

 

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